posting this here for my own reference as much as yours
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posting this here for my own reference as much as yours

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Nam June Paik, Electronic Superhighway: Continental U.S., Alaska, Hawaii, 1995, Smithsonian American Art Museum, Washington, D.C.
And a short talk about how the work is preserved:
So, how about i will show you what i was doing in university this semester? So you will understand why i have drawen so few drawing in this year... (Of course there are also the fact that i started watching cdramas in my free time, instead of drawing, but i hope we will overlook this fact...)•-•
First, warning! Really bad english, im studying in another language, so I don't know what to call any process in english, and i ll try to explain how it works, but if something is unclear, you can always ask •^•
Packing in the big pastel
It's always a sad day when I have to pack in a pastel. Even if you spray fixative on your work to seal the pastel surface--and I don't, because that often flattens/darkens the colors--the work, being fragile, has to be framed or packed away eventually. And framing a pastel is really expensive.
Source: The Dartmouth Brut: Conservation, Authenticity, Dissemination; Deborah Howe, Michelle R. Warren, 2015.

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🎥 The Healer | Lianhe Zoabao
“During restoration, the most important thing is to calm your mind. When our minds are calm our hands will be steady.” ~ Pia Josephine Chang, Principal Conservator, PIA Studio
Congratulations to Pia on this well-deserved recognition.
With 26 years in paper conservation, Pia is a rare kind of Art Doctor - restoring everything from celebrated artworks to Singapore’s oldest known time capsule, buried for 173 years. Her work is defined by patience, precision, and an almost meditative care.
Addicted has partnered with PIA Studio since our inception. It’s heartening to see this level of dedication and expertise recognised publicly.
Step inside “The Healer” and watch how paper is given a second life.
Art conservation research question.
Goodness it is so frustrating to try to do any research on the internet! Even 5 years ago it was bad and now its so so much worse. I am very knowledgeable on many things surrounding the topic I am trying to research, and everything I'm finding is aimed to be introductory and is also very WRONG! Every site seams to be a near copy/paste of each other too or maybe lightly rephrased. Lots of irrelevant information is included that is also inaccurate or straight up wrong. I have over 8 years of picture framing experience and consider myself more knowledgeable than many on reversible and conservation techniques for mounting different types of artwork. But I'm always interested in learning more! So, my question is: what is the best and safest way to remove a photograph that has become stuck to the glass in a picture frame? I am already familiar with several common methods that work ok. The most common being that the glass and photograph can be soaked in water, sometimes warm water, to release the photographic emulsion from the glass. The emulsion swells and becomes soft when wet and re-wetting it will unstick it from the glass. It is risky to soak fragile older photographs so alternatively humid air in a sealed container can also be used. My theory is that there may be a way of unsticking the photograph without reintroducing water. Something that will break the bond between the glass and the emulsion without softening the emulsion. My idea uses a solvent such as "D&K UnStik Adhesive Releasing Solvent", or "Pec-12". Both of these are used to clean photographic emulsion without softening the emulsion. This allows it to be gently scrubbed without rubbing away the photograph its self. Any chemical with water will soften the emulsion. Will either of these work without harming the photo even if soaked it in? I've cleaned photographs and slides with Pec-12 before. Is it the softening of the emulsion that is necessary to release it from the glass, or could something else like a solvent do the job? I can't find any info on if anyone else has done this. I may just have to take a sheet of wet darkroom photo paper and stick it to glass and let it dry and give it a try. -----
BTW. Aside from all the nonsense on the internet, if you want to prevent your photographs from sticking to the glass, use a mat or spacers to create an air gap between the art and the glass. Even for all other art that is not a photograph, this air gap is very important to prevent mildew and mold from growing on your art. How it works is glass changes temperature slowly, therefore the humidity condensates in small amounts on the inside of the glass. Overtime mold will grow and will show as a light fog on the inside of the glass. If your art is separated from the glass, your art is safe. If it's touching the glass, it will also have mold on it. Every so often (~10 years or so) you'll have to clean the inside of the glass and maybe if its really bad replace the top mat. Acrylic btw dos not have this issue in normal situations, it changes temperature quickly, so if you need to press your art, use acrylic. On a different topic I won't get into here, I always recommend UV protected glass and acid free materials at minimum. Anyway, let me know if you want to know what I find out.
Italian restorers have used laser beams to clean an ancient Roman marble column in the piazza outside the prime minister’s office, removing
Perched above rooftops in the heart of Rome, restorers on Thursday used laser beams to clean a marble column in the piazza outside the prime
In addition to debuting the short-pulse lasers, the group of 18 restorers use chemical wraps, sponges and resin to erase dirt from the smog in the Italian capital and fill holes created by water freezing in cold weather and expanding within. The monument has also suffered from erosion that has erased some of the faces of the engraved figures.