#alessandroberga

RESET THIS. DADA THAT. _ #Covid19 is consequential. For many existential. It may be about contemplating our inwards, revisiting what we do in our lives. It should not be definitive about our driving purpose where our beliefs are to be questioned, but not to be shaken. #Fashion will again, annoyingly to my sense, bandwagon on the pandemic effects and market it as THE Re-THING. Like all marketing in all spheres nowadays. Re-birth. Re-set. Re-evolution. Re-ignition. Re-inventing. Re-living. Re. Re. Re. And Re. Take @zegnaofficial and their (Re)Set. “THE (RE)SET, "(Re)tailoring the modern man." Entering a new era in men's style, the new #ZegnaFW21 Collection celebrates (Re)invented lifestyles in changing times, designed by @alessandrosartoriofficial. We all are experiencing a new reality concerned with new needs, which lead us to previously unseen lifestyles and attitudes. It is precisely at a time like this, when everything is under discussion, that we, at #Zegna, have decided to (Re)set. We have looked at our roots to (Re)interpret our style codes and (Re)tailor the modern man. Outdoor and indoor come together and a new way of dressing takes hold, where comfort and style blend to create a new aesthetic.” I don’t believe everything is under discussion. We frankly just waiting, passionately, to get back to pre-#covid times to dress and drench into frivolities and famous fêtes. For now it is a long pajama nightmare for all humanity, with somber griefs for many. Fashion may as well reset but as a Dadaist craved back in times not just in hyped #FW21 sloganisms. I look forward for a rupture this season not a détente en trompe l’oeil, where creativity will challenge itself to be a turning point in the meaning of style, bursting a nouvelle nouvelle élegance, beyond a @fendi “What is Normal Today?” These are the tiring times for the stand on disrupting surrealism. Fashion should reject fashion. Re-ject-it. _ #ALESSANDROBERGA | L’ÉDITOR #MILAN #MFW #MFW2021 #MODEDIPLOMATIQUE (at Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana) https://www.instagram.com/p/CKHYwbnnM25/?igshid=1aziiti25ygy9

VIRGINIE VIARD. BETWEEN BILL GAYTTEN AND ALBER ELBAZ - PART IV _ How a couture house might fare, creatively, without a super-ingenious couturier able to apply creativity and aesthetic sensibilities to fashion challenges? In the world of immediacy and self-celebration, that means combining an appreciation of the fashion with an understanding of invention — connecting artistry to audacity, poetry to panache. Chanel should not be afraid and avoid Dior’s creative égarements with #RafSimons and #MariaGraziaChiuri even if they promoted from within. With #VirginieViard in charge, #Chanel will remain unchanged in the future. Realism on my part. ‪Because if “Viard’s won’t be a revolution but an evolution that brings it back to that envisioned by Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel”,‬ I believe Bruno Pavlovsky, Chanel’s president of fashion may contemplate revisiting Karl’s strategic not fashion legacy by bringing in a designer who can lay down an aesthetic vision for the next decade.‪ ‬Someone who could stand at the intersection of trends and transfigurations. ‪In that regard, besides any taste judgements, the choices of #DemnaGvasalia and #AlessandroMichele to disrupt creatively #Balenciaga and #Gucci are highly commendable and commercially viable. While Viard’s ‬permanent-interim may‪ now seem confortable, it ‬will harm in the long run the staggering hype-and-creative equity the German-Gargantua built for years because she will “never (dare to) like the idea of doing things she is not supposed to do.” Instead of nodding to Karl’s love of books with a decor-homage today, why not have staged les appartements des Mademoiselle Chanel? Since her collection was about un retour aux sources Coco, not much Karl. Viard panned both. It was a moment to mark a rupture, that Karl himself would have applauded, it missed an opportunity to be original and originel -- Who said an evolution has to be quiet? Mr. Pavlovsky, one designer can reignite Viard and the whole maison’s joie de vivre; a coqueluche, loved, bankable, and mostly a couturier who brought forward the Jeanne and the Lanvin with finesse: @AlberElbaz8 #AlberElbaz. _ #ALESSANDROBERGA | L’ÉDITOR #PARIS #PFW #MODEDIPLOMATIQUE (at Paris, France) https://www.instagram.com/p/BzcU4WvnQJN/?igshid=hqnm5h6iw0tn

#CALENDARIOPIRELLI _ Paolo @Roversi, first italian to #TheCal, recapturing Romeo and Giulietta in Verona for the @Pirelli’s #Calendar. #PaoloRoversi is a photographer best known for his striking, intimate portraiture and classical visual language. His photographs occupy a realm between the past and present, resulting in imagery that feels at once progressive and familiar. Roversi’s interest in photography began at an early age during a trip to Spain, prompting him to build a darkroom for printing his black and white photographs. He began his professional career in 1970 with photojournalism assignments, but soon shifted his focus to fashion. After a period assisting Laurence Sackman, Roversi started shooting his own fashion editorials and advertising campaigns, the resulting catalogue of which over the years has made him one of the industry’s preeminent image-makers. In the early 1980s he added large-format Polaroid photography to his practice, a medium that continues to enhance his trademark style. #Roversi is widely regarded #fashion and portrait photographer and has documented all the most famous #models and movie stars. His photographs have been published internationally in magazines such as Vogue, W Magazine and Vanity Fair. He has collaborated with leading fashion and beauty houses, creating images for brands from Comme des Garçons, #Dior and #Guerlain to #Armani, #Chanel, and Lancôme. During his 40-year career as a photographer, Roversi has published several, including Angeli, Libretto, Nudi, Studio and Secrets and his work has been exhibited at galleries and museums around the world. Cento per cento, italiano. _ #ALESSANDROBERGA | L’ÉDITOR #VERONA #MODEDIPLOMATIQUE (at Verona, Italy) https://www.instagram.com/modediplomatique/p/BxAMb4-hR1G/?utm_source=ig_tumblr_share&igshid=43hgonho2shz

#ALESSANDROBERGA | L'ÉDITOR #EMPTYCAGES #MODEDIPLOMATIQUE (at The Surrey Hotel)

EXCLAMATION FASHION _ “Odio il punto esclamativo, questo gran pennacchio su una testa tanto piccola, questa spada di Damocle sospesa su una pulce, questo gran spiedo per un passero, questo palo per impalare il buon senso, questo stuzzicadenti pel trastullo delle bocche vuote, questo punteruolo da ciabattini, questa siringa da morfinomani, questa asta della bestemmia, questo pugnalettaccio dell'enfasi, questa daga dell'iperbole, quest'alabarda della retorica. Quando, come s'usa nei nostri tempi scamiciati, ne vedo due o tre in fila sul finir d'un periodo, che sembrano gli stecchi sul didietro di un'oca spennata, chiudo il libro perché lo sento bugiardo. Adesso v'è anche chi te l'accoppia con l'interrogativo, che par di veder Arlecchino appoggiato a Pulcinella. Tanto odio questa romantica lacrimuccia nera quando la vedo sgocciolare sulla povera candida pagina, che in essa mi immagino di scoprire or la causa or l'effetto, certo il chiaro simbolo di tutti i mali delle nostre lettere, arti e costumi. E se potessi far leggi, bandirei il punto esclamativo dalla calligrafia, dalle tipografie, dalle macchine da scrivere, dall'alfabeto Morse, con la speranza che a non vederlo più gli italiani se ne dimenticassero anche nel parlare e nel pensare, e pian piano espellessero dal loro sangue questo microbo aguzzo il quale dove arriva fa imputridire i cervelli e la ragione e rimbambisce gli adulti, accieca i veggenti, instupidisce i savi, indiavola i santi... Il punto esclamativo è il servo scemo dell'interiezione.” Behind my screen, I expected fashion beyond fashion. Life beyond life. Beauty beyond beauty. Instead the digital litany of virtual and non #SS21 shows, reignited in me #UgoOjetti’s introspections on the urge to use the ! : these #Covid19 fashion declamations portray coutures and creativities .. à bout de souffle. The collective corporation #io of the industry feels a disoriented hurray in a hurry. Festina lente, moda, festina lente. _ #ALESSANDROBERGA | L’ÉDITOR #PARIS #MILAN #MODEDIPLOMATIQUE https://www.instagram.com/p/CC4kY1un8Sj/?igshid=1nvvyt2maj2o0

LES SEPT DIVINES _ Medical equipment isn't what's most important. Many countries are focusing too much on it. The most important things are: 1. Testing capacity 2. Tracing logistics 3. Quarantine of positive cases The better these 3 are executed, the less people end up in hospitals at all. Yet, it is a chain, and any soft link can break the chain. THE foundation remains testing and its missing. Only celebrities, VIPs, and well-connected individuals are getting tested right now. That’s unfair besides irrational. We don't have a good picture of who has the virus. We don't know who to treat or who to quarantine. Socialism for the wealthy, capitalism for the poor is still in force. Trump will win his reelection in a landslide victory (how could anything else happen vs Biden?) and he'll celebrate his "quick" and "efficient" response to the problem that "saved so many lives", and more importantly, the economy. La farce continuera ... Last, simultaneously, five crises in one: - Public health crisis - Economic crisis – deep recession possible with many people losing jobs, GDP contracts, etc - Financial crisis - cracks were showing pre-Covid19 with Repo in Nov, credit seizes up, banks fail, financial rails stop working. These crisis are related but their solutions are different. - Social crisis - socialism rococo vs capitalism de masse with people running out of cash 1929 style - Geopolitical crisis – China asserting themselves, world transitioning from unipolar to multipolar. Israel is living an astounding constitutional crisis. Persians may overthrow the mullah’s, and Wuhan to sweep through Turkey destabilizing Erdogan iron grip. After U.K., France, Italy, Spain in perilous Exit-straits from European Union. Other than that gas stations near me forgot to mark down the price of oil and let’s hope internet bandwidth holds. Sixth crisis? Authoritarian overreach .. on our privacy. Then the crisis in all refugee camps around the world and homelessness in our neighbourhoods: Humanitarian crisis, so that’s 7. Quite the #climatechange .. Will we, citizens, at least come out of the #covid_19 more human not spam-connected? _ #ALESSANDROBERGA | L’ÉDITOR https://www.instagram.com/p/B-OzokFH8q4/?igshid=t9nlw917u32z

PLACISM BEYOND RACISM: IS THE @PYERMOSS TABERNACLE DRIP CHOIR DRENCHED IN THE @BOF? EPILOGUE _ I identify with @Kerbito, not hoping on his outragé because I wrote about these issues years ago and kept bringing them in solidarity. I, too, was put in situations where I was the offended one only to find my self by speaking up treated as the controversial one. Unfortunately, the average non-white fashion creative cannot identify with contemporary joke spins on inclusivity and diversity. Why? because it’s an opportuni$m circonstancié. No one offended the white entitled men and women in the biased rebuttal @BoF to lecture Kerby and the readers. From their condescending pedestal, on a matter they know absolutely nothing about, they are the living proof that they cannot identify with racism and placism as they have rarely been on the receiving end of it. Except when white women and white human marginalized groups are wrongfully dismissed by their own on equal opportunity and gender integrity. Kerby’s slap is not a racial victimization but a WTF is this still how the fashion system is making a contribution? How such normalized systematic exclusion is tolerated? Instead the system will never “spend a few mins on @PyerMoss.com” to “look at what we’ve done. Hate if you want I can’t stop you, but this is how you lose allies. And y’all about 75% lost me.” The irony of the curse heightens when most of whom trolling are professionals like the @Imran_Amed.s seeking recognition from a ruffian supremacist imperialist colonialist system. Otherwise, how would calling people like #KerbyJeanRaymond who complain about “gaslighted” an “angry man”? An unjust white majority lets you have your whatever fight as long as it’s under their white terms, cross the line and hoarders of insider and outsider snobs will come down on you with their troll’a povera. They never gave a $hit, never will. That’s how the tyranny of positivity discriminates by arguing that the fashion system is compa$$ionate and nouveau and camp. For thee, tolerance is a trend and inclusivity is exclusive. Why bother to believe when you will never belong? _ #ALESSANDROBERGA | L’ÉDITOR #PARIS #MODEDIPLOMATIQUE (at Paris, France) https://www.instagram.com/p/B3N_wwCH6xT/?igshid=1fifx5unx72sq

PLACISM BEYOND RACISM: IS THE @PYERMOSS TABERNACLE DRIP CHOIR DRENCHED IN THE @BOF? 5. _ “This is the type of shit that makes me constantly ask myself why the fuck I even bother... people like this are so comfortable being loud and wrong. The commenters don’t do any research, they are hungry for any bit of drama and do no fact checking before accepting bs as fact...” tweeted @Kerbito back in May 2019, the 11th precisely. In a One-11 #AllBlacks, he performed a hell of a digital #Hakka thread, no disrespect intended, that was prémonitoire and alas identical of the (repeated dumb) reactions stirred by his #BoF499. He openly clarifies that “the notion that brand shouldn’t be able to profit or sell luxury goods is the type of stupidity I can’t seem to understand... maybe one of you internet dweebs can explain how it’s ok for every fucking brand on your back can make a dollar off you and i can’t even tho... I’ve shown time and time again that I reinvest every fucking dime into hiring kids that look like us, paying models that look like us, highlighting our community through short films and creating programs for us.” @Niki_I, a bright and intelligent woman tweeted back how he legitimately “went straight #Brooklyn on em. You're doing more in a year than most of us do in our lifetime, in terms of achievements and helping our community. Don't let the catch-22 quandary (that OTHER people create and put on you) fuck with your light or your fight.” The knot is in THAT repetitive c-22, the @bof, pun intended, keep exasperating any designer practicing freedom without ill-antagonizing intentions. Yet the white fashion system keeps getting away with fabricated authenticity and fake accountability with the help of $ubservient media$. A mainstream bigoted system protected by another mainstream bigoted system fuelling polarizing fires. Today the fashion system is deliberately insulting heritages to bank out of uproar$. $candal $ell$. This vilifying “otherness” is marketed indelicately with no clues of relevancy to undoing placism while the non-white raise their “Henny” @Hennessy to such racist indecency. _ #ALESSANDROBERGA | L’ÉDITOR #PARIS #MODEDIPLOMATIQUE https://www.instagram.com/p/B3N9YJSnH69/?igshid=oyu5f77hn9c0